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Research Cosm'Innov in Orléans, the world cosmetology congress


Cosm'Innov in Orléans, the world cosmetology congress

Publié le : 30-03-2010

March 30 and 31, 2010 - more than 330 delegates have been invited to Orléans, the scientific capital of Cosmetic Valley, to discuss the latest progress in the science of cosmetics formulation.

An international congress
Some 21 nationalities were represented during the congress which brought together state researchers and private cosmetics laboratories from around the world.

25 High-level scientific conferences:

Green chemistry cosmetics :
- Chantal LARPENT (Lavoisier Institute, Versailles University - France): green surfactants enable solvent-free formulation.
- Sabine BERTINA-RABOIN (Institute of Analytic and Organic Chemistry, Orléans University - France): the latest advances in green chemistry regarding synthesis and purification procedures are in line with sustainable development ideas (using water-based solvents).
- Quoctuan DO (Greenpharma - France): reverse pharmacognosy is a new approach through which we can search a cosmetic effect in a data base that includes more than 150,000 plants.
- Vassilios ROUSSIS (Athens University - Greece):cosmetology can draw on the properties of seaweed which has to survive in extreme conditions and which naturally produces anti-inflammatories and antioxidants.
- Alain MEYBECK (AM Phyto Conseil - France) : has developed his approach to the treatment of cellular senescence.
- Christian ARTARIA (Indena - Italie) : Szechuan pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum) has a blocking effect on neurotransmitters and soothing and anti-irritation properties.

Physics approach of formulation
- Otto GLATTER (Karl-Franzens University - Austria): the stabilisation of micro-emulsions.
- Jean Thierry SIMONNET (L'Oréal - France): encapsulation methods and emulsification strategies to render formulas more effective.
- Jérôme BIBETTE (ESPCI ParisTech - France): coalescence and elasticity are the measuring parameters when creating an oil emulsion in water and when proceeding with an encapsulation.
- François DUCEPT (Agroparistech - France): the manufacturing process, the rotation speed and the interaction between the structure and the production process on the size of bubbles impact the formulation of foamy solutions and therefore emulsions.
- Déborah LANGEVIN (Orsay University - France): the rose of Jericho, with its amazing ability to dry out completely and then rehydrate when the rare desert rains falls, is an ideal study model for moisturising the skin.
- Marie RASTELLO DE BOISSESON (Eurotab - France): the process of compacting powders has an environmental advantage as the powder packs do not require water and are easy to transport.

Interaction between products and tissues:
- Anthony RAWLINGS (AVR Consulting - United Kingdom): the cutaneous barrier, composed of the stratum corneum, is the first defence against aggressions and is the focus of attention regarding moisturising products through the study of filaggrin.
- Emma SPARR (Lund University - Sweden): the stratum corneum is the barrier which separates areas of the skin and there are many imbalances between these areas. The gradient of water may be used as a switch on the structure of the membrane.
- Jean DOUCET (Orsay University - France): X-ray diffraction is a starting point for unlocking the mysteries of the stratum corneum, in particular the organisation of lipids present in the stratum corneum.
- Suresh RATTAN (Aarhus University - India): the lifespan of the human body is estimated in relation to the period for which it is programmed in order to fulfil its reproduction function. There is no gene which measures allotted longevity. Genes work on surviving, that is fighting to overcome and repair any damage suffered. The growth in the homeodynamic area should therefore be considered as a way of preventing ageing. By boosting the body's natural recovery processes, we challenge the body and force it to stretch itself, which is a positive approach to ageing. We have to know how to determine the level of challenge the organism is set and the recovery process
Knowledge of the skin:
- Philippe HUMBERT (Besançon CHU - France): digital photography enables us to measure the cosmetological effects of skincare products and the chromatography of make-up.
- A.F. BLACK (L'Oréal): For 20 years now, L'Oréal has been working on reconstruction models of an artificial skin on which we can carry out very precise tests without having to test on animals.
- Nathalie BELOT (Straticell - Belgium): The reconstructed epidermis enables us to carry out more and more precise tests on cutaneous irritations complying with new European regulations banning animal testing.
- Satoshi AMANO (Shiseido - Japan): fibulin-5 is one of the ingredients which allows us to work on protecting the skin's elastic fibres (fibroblast).

Cosmetology of the future:
- A. GREGORY (Saarbrucken University - Germany): multiphoton tomography provides high resolution imagery of skin tissue, in particular enabling its elastin and collagen to be measured. This also enables us to measure whether the nanoparticles of sun creams have passed into the organism or have remained on the surface of the skin.
- Florent YVERGNAUX (Bioeurope - Solabia Group - France): biotechnology uses living organisms (non-genetically modified bacteria) to produce principal actives for cosmetics in a natural and environmentally friendly way.
- Nicolas GRABE (Heidelberg University - Germany): the homeodynamic approach towards cell structure shows that gene networks are more important than an isolated gene study approach.

Photo credit: Cosmetic Valley

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